Where To Stay In Puerto Viejo, Part 2

Continuing our journey down the jungle-lined road from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo, we come upon the communities of Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva and Arrecife, Playa Grande, and finally, the end of the road, Manzanillo. For information on the other places to stay in the Southern Caribbean, see Where To Stay In Puerto Viejo, Part 1, for a breakdown of Puerto Viejo, Playa Negra, and Playa Cocles. 

For now, let's continue southward and explore the little town of Playa Chiquita.

Playa Chiquita

Shawanda Lodge entrance in Playa Chiquita

Ten years ago or so, Playa Chiquita was little more than a few houses and locales tucked well into the jungle: Duende Gourmet, the one super of the area, Jungle Love, the one restaurant of the area (sadly no longer), Shawandha Lodge, the one hotel in the area, and the lamp store. Beyond that, two somewhat hidden paths to the beach were the main reason to stop off in Playa Chiquita, just six kilometers south of Puerto Viejo, or an enjoyable 20-minute bike ride, usually full of monkey and sloth sightings. While the sleepy little community has grown, and grown, and grown over the last decade, Playa Chiquita still remains somewhat sleepy and somewhat of a secret.

Now home to a variety of restaurants, like the very popular Pura Gula, GypSea Cafe, and La Leyenda Pizzeria, plus the chic and sensory-pleasing Casa Mandala, another thing that makes Playa Chiquita unique are the Great Green Macaws, whose population is growing in this green neighborhood thanks to the fantastic and tireless work of The ARA Project (do not miss the chance to visit The ARA Project during your visit! One of the coolest things you can do in this area. Daily tours from 3-4pm). 

Access to the beach here is still limited to hidden paths and entryways, which is another bonus as cars can't drive up to or onto the beach like in other areas of the Southern Caribbean, but swimmers be ware: THERE ARE VERY STRONG RIP TIDES AND CURRENTS HERE AND NO LIFEGUARDS!

While Shawandha Lodge is still up and running, it's not the only accommodation available, not by a long shot. There are plenty of luxurious Airbnbs and vacation rentals here, making this a great option for large family vacations. And as with all of the area, there's an option for every budget, so even if a villa sleeping 14 isn't what you're looking for, you'll still be able to enjoy this hidden gem.

Punta Uva & Arrecife

Beautiful, picture-perfect Arrecife Beach

The same is true today as it was when I arrived here more than a decade ago, the further south you go, the more wild it gets and the more beautiful the beaches become, and Punta Uva and Arrecife prove that point. These two beaches, separated by the Grape Point itself are some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Costa Rica. The water on the Punta Uva side is calm though can be great for longboards on occasion and the Arrecife side looks like you've stepped into a postcard. While there isn't as much ambiance or town-type amenities here, you won't miss that, especially if you came for the nature. 

A few vacation rentals exist in this zone and in recent years a boutique hotel has popped up just off the main road--Bungalows Punta Uva--though aside from that, there aren't that many places to stay here. Most visitors to the area pack in on the weekends, so this area can get thick with cars and parking is tight along the one road in and the beachfront. Though if you're lucky enough to get this area all to yourself on a quiet weekday, you'll see just what all the hype is about. Since staying here is pricey and a bit limited, consider renting bikes from wherever you are staying and enjoying a nice day trip to this area. 

For those who do stay in Punta Uva and Arrecife, there are a few restaurants in the area, one small little pulperia, that doubles as the local dive bar, and that's about it. With a good book and a pair of binoculars, if you're in the mood to unplug, this is the spot for you.

Playa Grande & Manzanillo

The mirador at Manzanillo

Playa Grande may be the last true bit of pristine and untouched land in this region of the world, and let's hope it stays that way for a while longer. Some people have started to build vacation rentals on the outskirts of Manzanillo and while they may declare their location Playa Grande, as of yet there are no houses, hotels, or restaurants on Playa Grande proper, not this Playa Grande anyways. Please note that almost every area with a beach in Costa Rica has a Playa Grande, so be specific with the region you're searching for before you end up booking on the wrong coast. 

At the end of the road, the small town of Manzanillo remains just that: a small town. Like almost everywhere in the world nowadays, you can book an Airbnb here and try your hand at local living. The town is also home to some traditional small hotel businesses with clean, basic rooms and sometimes breakfast included, a decided non-Airbnb perk. Though for the number of visitors to the area on the weekend, the number of guest beds doesn't match the demand, so depending on the time of year you plan on coming, don't be surprised if things are all booked up. On the other hand, in the off-season, you'll have your pick of places to stay, and most likely at a reduced price. The town has everything you need to enjoy a vacation for a few days--restaurants, mini supermarkets, great beaches, and places to stay--but it does not have a pharmacy, a bank, an ATM, or even a real bus stop, so if you're making this home base, be prepared to bus, taxi, or bike (45 minutes to an hour;13 kilometers) back into town after a few days to handle your "real life" obligations. 

Hopefully this guide, along with Part 1, will help you decide on where to stay in Puerto Viejo and the Southern Caribbean zone. No one place is better than another, just different in its own unique way, and if you have the time you may consider spending a few nights in more than one location, to get a different flavor of the area. For those who have considered the options and are interested in staying in Puerto Viejo Town, please consider our Airbnb options: Casa Bachata, Casa Cumbia, Casa Merengue, and Casa Rumba.